Saltwater anglers that regularly fish from some type of watercraft generally take advantage of their ability to fish on the troll while dragging a lure or bait behind them, or by being able to languidly drift along to cover a large area at a slower speed. However, when fishing shallower inshore venues with the desire to sit in a stationary position while working over wrecks, reefs and other structure, there is nothing quite as effective as being able to drop an anchor.


According to the U.S. Coast Guard, anchoring is done for two primary reasons: first, to stop for fishing, swimming, lunch, or an overnight stay and secondly, to keep you from running aground in bad weather or as a result of engine failure. Anchoring can be a fairly simple task if you do it properly.

There are several types of anchors to choose from, depending upon the type of bottom that you intend to set up over. When anchoring in mud, clay, sand or weeds, a Danforth, spade or mushroom anchor will usually do the trick. But when anchoring over rocks, plow style anchors like the Delta or CQR tend to be much more effective. But no matter what type of anchor you ultimately select, always match its weight to the size of your boat, and consistently follow the manufacturers recommendations in this regard.  

The Coast Guard advises that a three to six foot length of galvanized chain be attached to the anchor. The chain will stand up to the abrasion of sand, rock or mud on the bottom much better than a fiber line.

A suitable length of nylon anchor line should then be attached to the end of the chain. The nylon is intended to stretch under heavy strain, thus cushioning the impact of the waves or wind on both the boat and the anchor. Always connect your anchor line to the bow of your boat; tying off on the side rails or by the stern invites disaster.

Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need. General rule: 5 to 7 times as much anchor line as the depth of water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if the water depth is 8 feet and it is 2 feet from the top of water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 to 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out.

Secure the anchor line to the bow cleat at the point you want it to stop, and then carefully bring the bow of the vessel into the wind or current. Once you get to the spot you want to anchor, place the engine in neutral. After your boat comes to a stop, slowly lower the anchor. Never throw your anchor overboard; this will almost always result in it becoming entangled in the anchor line.

Once all of the anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor gently with your engine in reverse in order to set it properly. When anchor has become firmly entrenched, be sure to check nearby landmarks and reference points frequently to make sure that your boat is not drifting off of its secured position.

When you eventually retrieve it, simply move the boat over the anchor while pulling the line in. Pulling the anchor straight up should break it free, but if the anchor gets stuck, turn your boat in a circle while under power. Remember to always retrieve your anchor all the way into the boat before attempting to leave the area.

If you follow these basic guidelines faithfully, you will quickly become adept at making sure that your anchored boat is always well positioned over the structure that you want to fish.