About.com Rating

The Bottom Line

Excellent all-around belay device for all types of climbing.

• Belay and rappel device for all kinds of climbing.
• Weight: 89 grams
• Color: Anthracite
• Price: $24.95 (with 1-year warranty)
• For more information: Black Diamond Equipment

Pros

• Versatile full-function belay device with 2 friction modes for climbing and rappelling
• Excellent for lowering climbers with differing weights
• Accommodates ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm

• Easy to control on rappels and dissipates heat generated by rappelling
• Works great for all kinds of climbing

Cons

• Takes work to learn to use as an auto-block device

Description

• Offers smooth operation in both friction modes for both belaying and rappelling.
• Ideal belay device for partners of differing weights. The ATC-XP excells at featherweight climbers lowering linebacker types.
• Allows the use of a wide range of rope diameters and works good in snow and ice conditions.
• It has enough beefy mass to dissipate the heat generated by long rappels as well as reduces wear on ropes.

Guide Review - Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

I’ve used Black Diamond’s ATCs (short for Air Traffic Controller) ever since they first came out. They’ve come a long way from a simple tubular design. The ATC-XP is from the newest generation of ATCs. This variable-friction device lets you control how much friction and resistance you want for different situations when you’re belaying or rappelling and gives greater control when you’re using ropes of different diameters.

Climbing Magazine awarded the ATC-XP its 2007 Editor’s Choice Award as the best belay device.

The ATC-XP offers two use modes making it doubly handy on the cliff. Its deep cleated V-grooves on the high-friction side allow lots of resistance for catching and holding beefy climbers when they fall, as well as let you use thinner diameter ropes in ice and snow conditions. On the smooth low-friction side you can belay and lower light-weight climbers, make quicker slab rappels, and allow smooth feeds for those hard redpoint ascents. It also works great on mountaineering routes when you're using a thin cord or in snow and ice conditions. Remember though that this is no an auto-locking device like the Petzl GriGri.