Settings for Loose Stones

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    • Loose gemstones are a thing of beauty unto themselves. The proper settings, or mountings, further enhance their fine qualities. What qualifies as the right setting depends on the type of stone. The sparkle of a faceted diamond, ruby or sapphire benefits from an open-bottom setting that allows light to shine on the stone from both the top and bottom. A closed setting better serves stones that are highly refractive; in this setting, light enters the gem from the top and reflects back to the observer.

    Prong Setting

    • The classic four- or six-prong setting is the most commonly used jewelry mounting. This simple setting is also known as a claw setting because the prongs form a basket for the loose stone to sit in and then close over the edges of the stone, securing it in place. Its minimalist intrusion on the stone allows the maximum amount of light to shine on the stone from all angles.The four-prong setting is known as the "Tiffany" setting because the founder of Tiffany & Company developed it. Jewelry designers use it for rings, earrings, pendant necklaces and bracelets.

    Bezel Setting

    • The bezel setting is an ancient technique that looks ultra modern. It holds the stone like a picture frame. A collar of precious metal wraps around the gemstone so that the top of the stone is flush with the metal. This provides added protection against losing the stone. The bezel can be full or partial, or molded into any shape. The back is opened or closed. The bezel setting is appropriate for rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets.

    Channel Setting

    • In a channel setting, the stones are suspended in a row between two bars of metal. This setting is good for smaller and square-cut stones that can sit side-by-side. Most widely used in tennis bracelets and eternity rings, the channel setting also works well in pendants and earrings.

    Pave Setting

    • A pave setting looks like the stones are paved into the design. Small stones are set together as closely as possible and set with grains of metal so that the surface looks like one continuous stone. The look is luxurious and extravagant. This setting is most often used with diamonds, Tanzanite and other valuable gemstones that are cut in very small sizes. Rings and pendants are the primary recipients of pave settings.

    Invisible Setting

    • An invisible setting appears to be just that. Metal wires that hold stones together are laced from underneath the stones, giving the appearance of a floating or continuous, uninterrupted field of stones. The Art Deco period of jewelry used the invisible setting often, as seen in the designs of Van Cleef & Arpels.

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