Sculpting and Molding

• You can form paper clay around the skeleton of the piece you are working after it has dried. The strength of the paper clay enables you to build up and out more than you would normally be able to. Because the clay is stronger, you are able to work it into much larger and thinner dimensions. The final product will be less likely to collapse upon itself. Also, because of its ability to adhere, paper clay can be molded onto moist or bone-dry clay.
  
  

Carving and Cutting

• Use super sharp knives (like X-Acto knives) to carve and cut paper clay. If your cutting tool is too dull, as with tools used to carve traditional clays, the cellulose fibers in the paper clay will either not cut, or will leave the cut surface rough. Of course, because of its nature, you can always re-wet, mend and make your cut again.
  
  

Drying and Firing

• Homemade paper clay and commercial papier mache types of paper clay do not need to be fired. Like most traditional clays, the pre-made clay you buy needs firing to set properly. Unlike them, however, it only needs to be fired once, which saves kiln time and money. It is less likely to crack, but if it does, the broken pieces can be taken off and reattached. Final works don't even need to be re-fired.
  
  

Making Your Own Paper Clay

• Celluclay is a commercial papier mache type of clay. Purchase it dry, add warm water, mix well and sculpt. You will be able to feel when you have reached the right consistency. It is not traditional clay in that it is made up largely of paper and dry glue. Also, if let sit for too long, the glue loses its stick, so you will need to add your own when mixing. When this type of sculpting compound dries, the surface texture is very rough. The final projects may be painted beautifully and glossed, but must be treated gingerly as they are breakable.