German Grape Varietals

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Top German Grape Varieties and Their Characteristics


German grapes and the wine they make differ surprisingly from the better known varietals grown in the US, Italy or France. While whites predominate, German reds are making some inroads and receiving acclaim.

In order of highest number of acres planted to least.

Riesling - grown in the Palatinate, the Rhine river valley and along the Mosel, Riesling is a very old grape brought to Germany by the Romans.

It has a crisp taste, due to its acidity, but harbors a lot of fruitiness. It likes slate and sandy soils and takes 130 days to mature. Can be cellared. White.

Müller-Thurgau - for wine aficionados, Müller-Thurgau was created about 100 years ago by crossing Riesling with Madeleine Royale, a table grape. It ripens 30 days earlier than Riesling, but gives up a lot of acidity to do so. It is a major component of Liebfraumilch (together with Silvaner) and has a negative reputation because of it. Franconia makes the best dry Müller-Thurgau wines. Drink young. White.

Spätburgunder aka Pinot Noir was in earlier times always made into a rosé. Today, German vintners in Baden and on the Ahr are experimenting with barrique aging, but very little of this is being exported and it is very expensive. Red.

Dornfelder - a new red varietal created in 1955 which is turned into a sweet dinner wine with plum overtones. Red.

Silvaner - the other component of Liebfraumilch, 300 year-old Silvaner can be a very tight, acidic wine with good fruit.

It expresses its terroir well and is best bottled as single vineyard wine. It is always unoaked and should be consumed young. White.

Grauburgunder, Pinot grigio or Pinot gris - light, crisp and acidic, this wine is raised in Baden and in the Palatinate. It has been bumming around Europe for over 600 years. White.

Kerner - is an aromatic cross between a red Trollinger and Riesling. It buds late, which helps it avoid late frosts. It has a Muscat fragrance, which consists of flowers and ripe fruit, and low acidity. It is grown in almost all wine regions of Germany. White.

Bacchus - developed in 1972 in Franconia, Bacchus is a cool-climate performer. It has both good sugar development and good acid together with an exotic fragrance. It is a cross between Riesling, Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau. White.

Scheurebe - came about in 1915 as a cross between Silvaner and Riesling. Sweeter than Riesling but lower in acid, it needs to be fully ripe to make a decent wine, whereas Riesling doesn’t. Grown in Franconia and the Palatinate. White.

Lemberger - an older varietal which originated on the Danube in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is dry with lots of tannins and often described as spicy and manly. Red.

Chasselas - is grown in Switzerland, Portugal, France, Germany and New Zealand! It has a five-thousand year history. It makes a full, dry fruity wine ideal for cheese dishes such as Raclette. Called Gutedel in Baden. White.

Traminer (Gewürztraminer) - is related to Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier (French varietals) and is another 1000 year-old grape. It has a distinct spiciness to the nose and Alsace makes some incredible dry wines out of it. If you buy a sweet Traminer, it goes well with spicy, Asian food. White.

St Laurent - is a red varietal with increasing cultivation. It is more complex than the easy-going Portuguese reds but not as difficult to grow as Pinot Noir. It is a medium-bodied, red wine with overtones of berries and black cherries. Red.

Trollinger - a late-maturing red that has been around since Roman times. Today it is only grown in the Baden-Württemberg region. Red.

There are also small amounts of other varietals including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, presumably to fit in with market perception. Other traditional varietals are decreasing in acres planted.
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