How to Make a Vanity Top with Tiles
- 1
Designing
Plan your tile surface design or theme. There are millions of sizes, shapes, colors and kinds of tile to be found. When I am planning a room decor, the tiled surfaces are usually my main theme. You can find many, many 'How To' tile books. Some of the best are from your local building supply store. They will provide lots of different pictures and How To's.
As I am planning a new countertop, I look at the size of the space, the shape and if and where a sink will be placed. I will design a room around a theme or color pallet and the tiles I buy will part of that theme.
Use graph paper and draw your surface to scale. I use ¼" =1' graph paper when I design. If I have a particular tile and theme in mind, I will draw those sized tiles on my graph paper. This will help determine how many tiles I must purchase. If you are custom ordering tiles it's a pain if you've miscalculated and not ordered enough OR too many and they won't take them back. Be aware, most custom ordered tiles cannot be returned! - 2
Sub-Surface and Self-Edge
The preparation of the surface to be tiled is as important as the tiling itself.
In new construction: The cabinet must be solidly in place and have a solid surface top to place your tile on. Such as plywood or cement board. I generally use 3/4" plywood as my sub-surface. You can have your supply store, such as Lowes or Home Depot, cut the plywood to your specified dimensions.
This sub-surface must be approximately 1"-2" bigger than the cabinet on the front and sides. This gives you an overhang on the edge of the cabinet top. Screw this sub-surface to the top of your cabinet. Usually there will be a 1' edge or corners in the top of the new cabinet. I use 1x2" lumber to make a self edge on the sub-surface. Make sure your use 1 1/2"- 2" screws to connect this self edge to the edge of the sub-surface.
Mark any holes that are needed. Such as a sink hole. Your new sink will have a template on or in the box. If a template is not found, turn the sink over and draw around the outside perimeter of the sink in its correct position. Then draw an inner circle about 1/2" inside perimeter of your sink template. If the sink has holes made for the faucet you wont have to worry about drilling extra holes in the subsurface. I drill a half inch hole with a power drill and 1/2" bit. I will then use a jig saw to cut out my sink hole. The point of this exercise is to make sure that the sink wont fall through the subsurface hole. - 3). I mark the center of the sub-surface front to back and side to side. Usually my themed or special tiles called, " Listellos" or liners, will be my focal point. I generally run them side to side through the sink hole, (about 1/3 of the distance from the front of the counter to the back), and or have them as my back splash. Remember to use your graph paper and draw your design. Use this drawing to guide you as your mark your sub-surface.
I will start at the center front, vertical edge. This vertical edge is called a self-Edge. I use a 2" tall by however long my tile is, "Listello" or Liner tile as the vertical, front & sides of the countertop. I use heavy duty tile glue such as Liquid Nails for Granite or Power Grab for outdoor use for Tile. I always start by gluing the vertical center tile of the self edge tiles.
Using ¼" tile spacers I will then work my way out to the outer edges. This self edge tiling must be done before the top of the countertop tiles. This makes it easier when you start on the top tiles. The top tile will eventually cover the top edge of the self edge tiles. Because these tiles are taped in place, these tiles must be set and dry before starting on the countertop. I will do all my vertical self edge tiles and let them set overnight. - 4
Roto-Zip
Your countertop sub-surface should be marked for layout, front to back and side to side.
My center point is always the center of my sink. There are times that I use this center point as the center for my first tile and other times I will use this center point as the edge of my tile. This depends on what design I am trying to achieve.
I will always start at the front & center of my countertop. Because most tiles are 2x2', 4x4", 6x6", 12x12", or larger, the back tile will usually have to be a cut tile. I will try to make all my cut tiles so they show the lest.
Mix a small bucket of mortar mix to a thick pudding consistency. Using a ¼" notched trowel, mud the back of your tile, covering the entire back surface. Place the tile in place gently wiggling it into place. Make sure that your tile correctly lines up with your layout lines.
Using the plastic tile spacers, place one at each corner. Proceed with your second tile and so on.
This is all easy and fun, until you come to the edge of your sink hole. I pre-place, dry fit a tile in the position over the hole without mortar. I will then reach under the hole and draw the sink hole on the back of the tile. Take this tile out and using a Roto-Zip, with a diamond blade, I will cut the tile to the shape of the hole. Remember, this cut will be slightly rough in appearance. Don't worry, If you have marked the tile correctly and cut within those lines, this cut will be covered with your sink edge. - 5
Wet Tile Saw
As you continue adding tiles, you will come to a spot that a full tile will not fit. Either the side edge or the back of the countertop. I use a tile wet saw.
This diamond bladed table saw uses water to keep the blade cool. You can buy or rent a tile wet saw at your local building center.
Measuring the space, you will then mark your tile to the correct dimensions with a pencil. I put tape on the tile along my marked lines. Using the wet saw, I line the blade up with my taped marks. The table slides under the saw blade. CUTION: Always use eye protection. Tile fragments will sometime fly. Keep your fingers away from this blade as you push the table and tile under the blade.
Dry fit your cut tile. I will use a sanding block to blunt the cut edges of my tile. Mortar and place. As you are fitting tiles next to each other with the spacers, you will want to continually check their heights aligned to one-another. Keep all your tiles flat. You will have a short period of time to adjust the heights of your tiles. I will keep a small rubber mallet handy for this task. Gently. - 6
Vanity Sink Holes
As you work from front to back, you will have many cuts to fit for the sink. This is the slowest part of this process. When I have completed these sink cuts, I will dry fit the sink to make sure that none of the tiles project into the sink hole, keeping the sink from fitting. If you find that a tile is dry and set in place and projects into the sink hole, you can use your diamond bladed, Roto-Zip saw to cut the projection off. Don't do this until the tiles are dry and firmly in place.
Once the countertop is dry, you can proceed to the backsplash. Again I start in the center back and work my way out. This keeps my cut pieces at the very outside edges. I can then complete my side back splash.
On the side backsplash, I start at the front and work my way back to the corner. This again keeps my cut tiles to the back and away from direct eyesight. I line up my side backsplash front tile to the front of the surface tile. You can use mortar on these or for faster dry time, I use Liquid Nails for Granite or Power Grab for outdoor use. I tape these vertical backsplash tiles into place. Let set overnight. - 7
Finished Tile Countertop Vanity
I pick my grout color so it almost disappears. I'm not into the 70's style of light colored tile and dark grout.
Grouting is a no brainer, busy work task. One of my least favorites. Depending on the size of grout space you will buy a sanded or non-sanded grout. Read the specifications on the grout bag. Generally ¼" & larger will use sanded grout. Less than ¼" space will use an non-sanded grout. Mix the grout in a bucket to a thick pudding consistency. Make smaller batches with the non-sanded grout, it dries much faster and is harder to wipe off your tile.
Using a large square sponge or a rubber grout trowel apply your grout side to side, pushing the grout into all the spaces. Work diagonally.
When you are assured that all the spaces have been filled completely, clean out your sponge or trowel. Keep a five gallon bucket of clean water close at hand. With a large, barely damp, rectangle sponge, wipe diagonally across the grouted tiles. Clean your sponge often, wring the sponge to just barely damp. You don't want to be applying to much water to the surface.
Wipe excess grout off the surface of the tile. Let sit till the top starts to become cloudy. With a cleaned out, damp sponge wipe the surface again working diagonally. Working diagonally helps keep the grout in the spaces, but helps clean the surface. I do this several times. Let completely dry. Come back the next day, the grout should be dry and you should be able to clean the surface. Don't worry that the surface looks a little cloudy. This will clean off.
Depending on the type of tile, i.e. porcelain, granite, marble, or ceramic, you will need to seal the grout and the tile itself. I use sealers from my local building center. Read the specifications on the product. If your not sure what you should use. Take a tile into the store and ask. They are usually very good at helping.
Good Luck.
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